The guard, dressed like a policeman, led me to a place labelled “Women’s Room” in Arabic and English. He knocked on the door and gestured to go in. The room was presided over by two large apparitions covered, eyes and all, in black shrouds. I presumed them to be women, only because of the legend on the door. They could have been gorillas in there for all I could see, and they were about the right size.

Not wanting to give them the novel experience of opening their door at the crack of dawn to behold a naked woman, I toured the flat (on hands and knees) to find some cover. There was absolutely nothing: no curtains or cushions, not even a piece of newspaper. At least I was in the strictly segregated female housing. So, leaving my front door open, I dashed across the corridor, rang their bell, dashed back and retreated behind my door, which I left open a crack…